Songkran: Thai New Year
Author: LC | April 18, 2022
What is Songkran?
Songkran is the Thai new year. The word derived from the ancient Sanskrit language meaning “passage of the sun”. In Thailand it used to celebrated on the first day of spring set by the lunar calendar which historically occurred on the day when the sun changes position in the zodiac. However, it is now observed on fixed dates — from April 13 to 15. It also marks the end of the long dry season, and arrival of new harvest season.
We chose to spend the 2022 Songkran in a quiet part of the Old City, Chiang Mai. Songkran used to be only celebrated in Northern Thailand and Chiang Mai is recognized as one of the most authentic examples and also the most intense. Although it was yet another COVID induced "dry" Songkran without the famous water fights, it was actually a great chance for us to enjoy the real Thai New Year traditions. The friendly staff in the hotel —Twenty Lodge — gave us this CMHY website link which listed all the celebrations visitors can view and participate in.
Spring Cleaning Turned Water Fighting
Similar to Christmas in Canada or Chinese New Year in Taiwan, Songkran is a holiday when family gathers and one spends time with loved ones. People prepare for the new year by cleaning the houses, schools and other public areas. Buddhists will visit the temples and bathe the Buddha images by pouring water over the Buddha (but not over the head) to represent purification and good fortune.
Before COVID-19, you would see huge friendly water fights on the street with water guns, balloons, and buckets of water. In an effort to prevent the spread of COVID-19, the government cancelled it for the 3rd year in a row. Instead, the city built a “water splashing tunnel” by the Thapae Gate to sprinkle cars and scooters driving by. Upon entering the gate, you will also be sprinkled with mist installed in the entrance, which was very welcomed in the hot April weather.
Sand Pagodas
Some temple visitors bring sand, which is meant to replenish the sand that’s been carried away on shoes by the monks throughout the year. From what we can tell, each temple has prepared bamboo holders for the sand pagoda. Visitors then can place colourful flags on it as offerings.
Three Kings Monument
On the morning of April 12, we set out to see the Bathing ritual for the Phra Setangkhamanee buddha. Being lost, we instead stumbled upon a huge parade in front of the Three Kings Monument. Rows and rows of fingernail dancers dressed in Thai traditional outfit slowly moved towards the monument in unison motion.
The group consisted of both young and old. There were even little girls included in the parade.
Following the dancers, large amount of locals lined up holding their proud offerings to be presented at the square at the end of the parade.
Golden Buddha Parade
The next day, we were on our way to our favourite template in Chiang Mai – Wat Chiang Man. Once again, we stopped by the Three Kings Monument as a crowd was gathering and the roads around it were closed to traffic. We weren't sure what was going on so we stopped to watch.
This time, there were also fingernail dancers, men dressed in red pulling the Golden Buddha forward by hand and 2 men beside the Buddha accepting water presented by locals which they then poured over the Buddha image.
Light and Sound Presentation – " Nawa Puri Sari Wiang kaew"
Right besides the Three Kings Monument, there was performance each night during the celebration to display the cultural heritage of Chiang Mai and Lanna people in front of Lanna Folk Arts Museum with a cast including Miss Chiang Mai and Miss Thailand! Sadly, we only caught the end of the show. However, we would highly recommend Three Kings Monument for anyone coming to Chiang Mai to observe the Lanna culture during Songkran!
Thapae Gate Plaza
Thapae Gate Plaza hosted most of the public events including the Alms giving ceremony for Pee Mai Muang , "Toong"(Lanna flags) crafting contest, Sand pagoda crafting contest, Lanna offerings contest, a Beauty Pageant contest and more. With walking street nearby full of food vendors, this is a great stop to see Lanna culture.
If you are hoping for a water fight, there are few kids, and foreigners disregarding COVID rules, who were definitely happy to spray water at you with their water guns.